Mu Cang Chai has been recognized as one of the most unique attractions in Vietnam and has been designated as a national scenic monument. Famous for its soft, golden terraced rice fields that enchant numerous visitors, join us at RuudNguyen.com to explore this mesmerizing destination that captures hearts.
Introduction to Mu Cang Chai
Mu Cang Chai during the ripe rice season (Photo collected)
Mu Cang Chai is a small mountainous town located in the West of Yen Bai province, about 300km from Hanoi. The district lies at the foot of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, at an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level. When visiting Mu Cang Chai, you will experience the majestic Khau Pha Pass – one of the four great passes of the Northwest. Every harvest season, Mu Cang Chai welcomes tens of thousands of visitors from all over the country and countless groups of young people planning their trips to Mu Cang Chai.
When is the best time to visit Mu Cang Chai?
Tu Le, Khau Pha, Lim Mong village, La Pan Tan commune, Che Cu Nha, Thai village, Lung Nho Pass, … are the ideal places for visitors to admire the beauty of the ripe rice fields, to enjoy the poetic beauty and to take the most beautiful check-in photos.
Mu Cang Chai during the water pouring season (Photo collected)
The period from September to mid-October marks the time when Mu Cang Chai dresses in the vibrant golden beauty of the valleys’ terraced rice fields sprawling across various villages. This is the most beautiful tourist season in Mu Cang Chai, a time when visitors can behold the scenes of golden ripe rice terraces, captivating and enchanting images.
Additionally, around May – June is the water pouring season, when the terraced fields are being planted by the locals. Therefore, the steps shimmering with water in the afternoon sun create a beauty that astonishes many visitors, also representing one of the most beautiful and characteristic scenes of Mu Cang Chai’s terraced fields in particular and the northern mountainous region in general.
Guide to getting to Mu Cang Chai
Traveling at night might not be suitable if you plan to travel by motorcycle due to limited visibility and higher accident risks. The road to the hill is warned by travelers as quite treacherous. However, don’t worry, as at the foot of the hill, there will be motorcycle transport services offered by locals at reasonable prices. If traveling by motorcycle, you cannot go on the highway, so please follow the QL32 route to Nghia Lo.
Buses to Lai Chau will pass through Mu Cang Chai (Photo collected)
If you do not want to travel by night to Mu Cang Chai, you can choose another option which is taking a bus from Hanoi to Yen Bai City, and from there, continue to catch a bus to Mu Cang Chai. The total travel time is roughly equivalent, and there are more day trips available. You can take a limousine to shorten the travel time the most.
Accommodation in Mu Cang Chai
Hotels and guesthouses in Mu Cang Chai
Currently, Mu Cang Chai has many hotels and guesthouses (Photo collected)
If you come to Mu Cang Chai during peak times in September (such as the terraced fields culture and festival week), it’s almost difficult to book a room because the number of hotels and guesthouses in Mu Cang Chai is not large. If you plan to stay in Mu Cang Chai for just one day or Mu Cang Chai is just one stop in your itinerary, you might consider staying in Nghia Lo town.
To get a beautiful view, try to find accommodation as close to Khau Pha Pass as possible (Photo collected)
To capture beautiful photos of the Tu Le fields, you should be at the top of Khau Pha Pass early in the morning. To do this, you should stay in Tu Le or drive another 7km up to Khau Pha Pass, where there is a Restaurant and Guesthouse system with about 20 rooms available for tourists. From here, it takes nearly half an hour to reach the top of the pass.
Homestays in Mu Cang Chai
In recent years, with the improvement of roads and the recognition of Mu Cang Chai’s terraced fields as a National landscape, the number of tourists coming to Mu Cang Chai has been increasing.
Mu Cang Chai Homestay (Photo collected)
However, although the number of hotels and guesthouses in Mu Cang Chai has increased, it still cannot meet the demand of visitors during holidays and Tet.
Delicious dishes in Mu Cang Chai
Tu Le Sticky Rice
Tu Le sticky rice is ranked among the best sticky rice varieties in Vietnam, known for its sweet aroma and sticky texture that separates each grain rather than clumping together like most other types of sticky rice. Also known as Tan La rice (according to the Thai language), it is a special variety of sticky rice found only in the Tu Le Valley, Van Chan, Yen Bai.
Tu Le Sticky Rice is Exceptionally Fragrant and Chewy (Photo collected)
Tu Le sticky rice ranks among the finest sticky rice varieties in Vietnam, celebrated for its sweet fragrance and chewiness. Each grain separates easily, not sticking together like most other sticky rice types. Known as Tan La rice (according to the Thai language), it is a specialty sticky rice found only in the Tu Le Valley, Van Chan, Yen Bai.
The sticky rice here is deliciously fragrant and chewy, thanks to the rice fields being irrigated by the cool waters of the Muong Lung source stream. The rice is planted on a rare soil layer, thin weathered crust with high potassium concentration. The Tu Le Valley, nestled among three high mountains – Khau Pha, Khau Than, and Khau Song, experiences significant temperature variations throughout the day and longer nights than days. This is a crucial factor increasing the Amylopectin starch content, determining the rice’s chewiness and fragrance.
Additionally, the soil structure in Tu Le is loose and porous, easily absorbing water and with a clean climate conducive to the natural growth of rice plants. Thus, Tan La sticky rice planted here quickly takes root, thriving lushly. Therefore, Tan La Tu Le is considered clean rice with a very unique fragrance. What’s more, nowhere else can produce rice with such aromatic and chewy qualities as found in the Tu Le Valley.
For visitors who have been to Tu Le and enjoyed dishes made from Tu Le sticky rice such as green rice, duck porridge with green rice, five-color sticky rice, and bamboo-tube rice, infused with the soul by Thai girls, sipping Tu Le sticky rice wine in the “Khap moi lau” – a traditional wine invitation song, feels intoxicated in the warm embrace of the dance, deeply embedding the soul of the Thai land and the profound meaning of the song:
“Muong Lo, where rice is white and water clear,
Anyone who comes here hardly wishes to leave.”
Tu Le Green Rice
The commune of Tu Le, Van Chan district (Yen Bai), has long been famous for a type of sticky rice with large, round, translucent grains. When cooked into sticky rice, it has a particularly chewy and fragrant flavor, and when made into green rice, it adds a sweet, refreshing taste.
Green Rice in Tu Le (Photo collected)
To achieve such fragrant and delicious sticky rice grains, the highlanders believe Tu Le is favored by nature. The climate is cool year-round, the soil is rich in humus and minerals, and it’s watered by clear streams flowing from the top of Khau Pha pass… All of these factors contribute to the unique flavor of Tu Le sticky rice that cannot be found elsewhere.
When the sticky rice bends its head, still carrying the scent of milk, locals harvest it to make green rice. The process of producing this fragrant and chewy green rice is not simple. Tu Le green rice is often eaten with ripe bananas, persimmons right off the tree, or used to cook duck porridge, sticky rice, sweet soup, and added to dishes such as spring rolls, fried shrimp, fried meat…
Salmon and Sturgeon
A few kilometers up from the foot of Khau Pha pass on the Tu Le side, you will reach the Khau Pha restaurant area, which also hosts one of the largest Salmon farms in the North.
At Khau Pha pass, there’s a restaurant specializing in salmon and sturgeon hot pot dishes (Photo collected)
Many delicious dishes made from Salmon (or Sturgeon) are prepared here to serve tourists. If traveling in a large group, you can enjoy a hot pot to energize for the next part of your journey.
Fried Grasshoppers
Grasshoppers are found everywhere, but they are most abundant in Mu Cang Chai during the harvest season, around May and September. During these times, grasshoppers are always fragrantly delicious.
Fried Grasshoppers (Photo collected)
Perhaps, among the exquisite delicacies, besides the dishes unique to Mu Cang Chai, tourists should also savor the specialty considered the essence of the countryside in Mu, the fried grasshoppers of Mu Cang Chai.
In the plains or any region, locals and tourists pay attention to unusual and exotic dishes for a bit of novelty. Perhaps from childhood, tourists have experienced the essence of the countryside, especially during the rice ripening season, witnessing the scenes of jumping and popping in the fields, which are images of grasshoppers appearing.
Salted Fried Stream Crabs
The hiding spots of these Mu Cang Chai crabs are the rock crevices in streams of the highlands. Their habitat might be small but clean and safe, which makes the flavor of the crab meat stand out. Since these crabs live in rock crevices in the high mountains and not in the sea, fields, or mud burrows, the crabs from these areas will not have as fragrant and delicious meat as the stream crabs in Mu Cang Chai.
Salted Fried Stream Crabs can be found in all restaurants and eateries in Tu Le (Photo collected)
The meat of Mu Cang Chai stream crabs is very fragrant and firm, and it can be cooked into various dishes. It could be soup or grilled crab, but when you visit Mu Cang Chai, try to enjoy this dish that elevates above the ordinary.
The preparation of salted fried stream crabs is very simple yet delicious. The crabs are caught, shelled, and washed then drained. Oil is heated in a pan, garlic is added and fried until fragrant, then the crabs are added and stirred well, sprinkle roasted salt over until the crabs are golden brown and ready to be served on a plate. Enjoying the salted fried crabs can be simple or with some fresh vegetables for a delicious taste.
Five-Color Sticky Rice
For generations, Muong Lo – Yen Bai has been dubbed the “frying pan” of the Northwest provinces. Each time tourists visit for sightseeing, they not only enjoy the pristine, poetic scenery of the mountains and forests but also have the opportunity to taste famous rustic delicacies such as bamboo-tube rice, horse meat hotpot, smoked ribs… Especially, a dish with a sweet flavor and unique appearance that tourists cannot miss is the five-color sticky rice.
Five-Color Sticky Rice of Mu Cang Chai (Photo collected)
Yen Bai’s Five-Color Sticky Rice is made from quite special ingredients. Right from the way ingredients are selected, it requires meticulous attention; only with quality rice can the sticky rice be chewy and fragrant (Tu Le rice; large grains). Additionally, to color the sticky rice, forest leaves (like magenta leaves) or turmeric, and gac fruit are used (purple rice; red rice; black rice; orange rice; yellow rice; white rice).
As told by the elders in Muong Lo, to make the five-color sticky rice truly aromatic, delicious, and sweet-flavored, spring water must be used for cooking. To prevent the colors from blending, when cooking, each color of rice is carefully layered over another. Constant attention must be paid to keep the fire even during cooking, and a thin layer of chicken fat can be added if you don’t want the sticky rice too greasy.
For the people of Muong Lo – Yen Bai, five-color sticky rice carries a very special significance, symbolizing the Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory (metal, wood, water, fire, earth). If the rice is red, it symbolizes life’s aspirations; purple rice symbolizes rich and valuable land; yellow rice represents warmth and prosperity; green rice symbolizes the beautiful landscapes of the Northwestern mountains and the vast blue sky; white rice represents pure and loyal love…
In 2008, five-color sticky rice was recorded in the Vietnam Guinness Records with the largest sticky rice tray weighing 1.3 tons, with a diameter of 2.8m, and a thickness of 30cm. Today, Yen Bai’s five-color sticky rice is often made for major festivals such as: the Long Tong Festival (praying for crops), Lunar New Year, Xip Xi Festival (14/7)…
Mu Cang Chai’s Son Tra Fruit
- Taste: Eating Son Tra fruit from Mu Cang Chai, one finds a slightly tart, sweeter, and sour taste, not too sweet or sharply tart like other types of Son Tra fruit. The fruit is quite crisp, not soft or mushy, giving a slightly tingling sensation on the teeth. This is also a noticeable whitening effect of Son Tra fruit when used regularly.
Mu Cang Chai’s Son Tra Fruit is perfect for making aromatic wine when soaked (Photo collected)
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Shape: Mu Cang Chai’s Son Tra fruit has a round, slightly flattened shape, with a white to pink hue when ripe, and a fragrant smell. To select delicious fruit, don’t be greedy; choose moderate-sized fruits, as those with worm damage are also a characteristic of good Son Tra fruit.
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When holding a Son Tra fruit from Mu Cang Chai, it feels quite firm. Even when the fruit dries, it still remains firm and does not rot or become mushy like other types of fruit.
Beautiful Spots in Mu Cang Chai
Mu Cang Chai Tourist Map
Khau Pha Pass
Yen Bai’s Khau Pha Pass is the most treacherous and longest pass on National Highway 32, dubbed one of the “four great passes” with a length of over 30 km. Khau Pha Pass is among Vietnam’s most winding and steep mountain roads.
Khau Pha Pass with one side at the foot of the pass is Tu Le commune (Photo collected)
The pass is located at the border area between Van Chan and Mu Cang Chai districts of Yen Bai province, crossing through many famous places such as La Pan Tan, Mu Cang Chai, Tu Le, Che Cu Nha, Nam…
Situated at an altitude of 1,200m to 1,500m above sea level, the pass crosses over the peak of Khau Pha mountain, the highest mountain in the Mu Cang Chai region. The name of this mountain in the Thai ethnic group’s language means “Sky Horn” (the mountain horn reaching up to the sky), as the mountain peaks often protrude among a sea of clouds like a horn.
Paragliding spot on Khau Pha Pass (Photo collected)
Situated at an altitude of over 1,200 meters above sea level, the weather at Khau Pha is cool all year round, similar to the highlands of Da Lat. A day at Khau Pha experiences four seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter. Khau Pha is often shrouded in fog and in some years, it gets extremely cold, with snow covering the peak of the pass. The scenery from Khau Pha Pass is most beautiful during the ripe rice season, around September and October, when the rice on the terraced fields of Tu Le ripens, appearing faintly golden in the early mist.
This is the time when many adventurous tourists conquer the pass to see Khau Pha shining brilliantly amidst the deep blue earth and sky, bringing a magnificent beauty that touches the heart. This is also the peak time for adventurous tourists to conquer the pass for scenic viewing. Additionally, during the water-pouring season around May and June, Khau Pha Pass is no less captivating. The scene unfolds with the brown of the earth, the shimmering water alongside the sunlight, and the green of young rice… interwoven to create a mesmerizing painting on the terraced fields in the Khau Pha valley.
Buckwheat Flowers
To add more beautiful spots for tourists to enjoy posing and taking photos, some locals in Cao Pha commune have started growing buckwheat flowers here.
Buckwheat flowers are no longer a unique specialty of Ha Giang alone (Photo collected)
The flowers are planted in the area where the annual paragliding festival is held on Khau Pha Pass, with the blooming period lasting about 3 weeks, coinciding with the rice ripening season.
Camping on Khau Pha Pass
The pass has many wide and open fields where teams can camp, often preferred by those who love photography and picnicking because the next morning, they can wake up early to capture photos of Tu Le valley from the pass (the sky is clear and beautiful from 7 am to 9 am, after which it usually gets foggy).
Tu Le Commune
Formerly known as Nam Bung village in Van Chan district, Yen Bai province, Northwest Vietnam, it is a settlement and living area of the Thai ethnic group. The people are still poor, mainly relying on swidden agriculture.
Distinctive Color Patches in Tu Le (Photo collected)
Originally a valley nestled among high mountains, the area at the foot of the mountains features terraced fields with “the green of the leaves, the yellow from corn, blended with the brown from the soil”. Looking back in history, these colors were also represented by poppy plants “green on the bud but white, red, purple, and yellow from the flowers”.
Lim Mong Village
Lim Mong village in Cao Pha commune, Mu Cang Chai district – Yen Bai has been hidden in the clouds for generations. It is a destination that travelers often whisper to each other as one of the four great perilous places of the Northwest due to the challenging and dangerous access roads.
Lim Mong Village (Photo collected)
Crossing the dreamy suspension bridge leads to narrow paths like threads steeply ascending the mountain, where Lim Mong village nestles on the mountainside. From the pass, one can clearly see the stilt houses of the Thai people by the stream, winding amidst the vast rice fields. Lim Thai Village is home to the Thai community situated right next to the Khau Pha pass road, lying in a low area by the stream.
From the top of Lim Mong, looking towards Cao Pha, a stop for many travelers, a sense of novelty about places thought to be too familiar will surely stun many with the magnificent natural landscape. This exquisite painting is embellished by glittering water on terraced fields intertwined with the green of young crops, created by the laborious hands day after day, month after month, year after year, accumulating and refining to forge a peaceful and prosperous life in the highlands.
La Pan Tan Commune
La Pan Tan commune, Mu Cang Chai district, Yen Bai province, lies atop Khau Pha, one of the “four great passes”, nearly 2,000 meters above sea level. Previously, La Pan Tan was considered the capital of opium cultivation.
Early Morning Sun in La Pan Tan (Photo collected)
Now, on this land at the peak of the Northwest, the lush green terraced fields of corn and rice show that the life of the La Pan Tan people is changing day by day.
Mam Xoi Rice Terraces Photo Spot
Mam Xoi is a name given by travel enthusiasts to a beautiful photography spot during the ripe rice season in Mu Cang Chai. This place is about 10km from the district center, at the foot of Ba Nha bridge there is a dirt road going up, the road is quite bad and slippery especially during the rainy season, here there is always a team of local motorbike taxis ready to take you to the spot. As one of the famous destinations each golden season (ripe rice season) in Mu Cang Chai, the Mam Xoi hill in La Pan Tan is hailed as one of the most beautiful hills in the Northwest.
Mu Cang Chai’s Mam Xoi always attracts many photographers (Photo collected)
At an average altitude of 800 meters above sea level, the terraced fields in Mu Cang Chai are considered one of the most beautiful terraced fields in the world, alongside Luzon (Philippines); Yuan Yang (China)…
Che Cu Nha Commune
This is a commune of Mu Cang Chai district, located about 7km from the district center towards Hanoi. The road to this commune is quite steep and difficult to navigate, not very suitable for first-time visitors.
Shoe Peak in Che Cu Nha (Photo collected)
Due to the difficult roads, Che Cu Nha sees fewer tourists. If you have ample time, you can venture here and freely explore the beautiful and serene corners of this highland commune.
De Xu Phinh Commune
A small commune in Mu Cang Chai, often visited by adventurers to view the rice fields. De Xu Phinh has a relatively small area with a population of about 1,500 people.
De Xu Phinh in the Early Morning Mist (Photo collected)
Mu Cang Chai Market Days
Mu Cang Chai Highland Market (Photo Collected)
Traveling the Che Tao – Muong La Route
One of the deepest communes of Mu Cang Chai district, directly connecting to Muong La district of Son La. The road to Che Tao has been extremely challenging for many years due to steep slopes, slippery and muddy roads; the journey of over 30km from the district center to the commune center sometimes takes half a day, and if wishing to continue to Muong La, it would take another half day.
Ke Ca School, located on the road from Che Tao to Muong La (Photo Collected)
However, in the last few years, Mu Cang Chai district has worked on the road to Che Tao. Although not completely finished, it has somewhat shortened the time to reach the commune center. On the other side, Muong La district has also completed a road of more than 10km right up to the border of Che Tao commune.
Traveling the Ngoc Chien – Muong La Route
Ngoc Chien is not only one of the communes of Muong La district, Son La province, but it is also known as one of the famous tourist destinations in the Northwest. Ngoc Chien has beautiful fields like paintings, majestic high mountains, and winding roads.
In Ngoc Chien, you can bathe in hot springs and enjoy Thai ethnic dishes such as five-color sticky rice, sticky rice from upland fields, local pork, bamboo-cooked rice, grilled hill chicken…
Pu Nhu Waterfall
Pu Nhu Waterfall is located in Pu Nhu village, La Pan Tan commune, Mu Cang Chai district, about 10km west of Mu Cang Chai district center. Originating from streams in the forests upstream from Than Uyen (Lao Cai), the waterfall has a height of about 20 meters and is divided into several levels.
Pu Nhu Waterfall (Photo Collected)
In the area of the waterfall, the highest temperature of the year is about 26 degrees Celsius, offering a refreshing and cool climate ideal for day picnics. The rock platforms, gently caressed by the water cascading down over green moss patches, leave an indelible impression on anyone who has ever immersed themselves there, letting their soul drift with the stream, forgetting the worries and burdens of life.
Mo Waterfall (Mu Cang Chai)
In Mu Cang Chai, from above, visitors can see Mo Waterfall like a glittering white silk ribbon, softly stretching out. It is said that this silky ribbon is as smooth as a young girl’s hair, adorned with many granite rocks. Mo Waterfall lies between Na Hang A peak and Na Hang B peak within the territory of Mo De commune (Mu Cang Chai district).
Mo Waterfall, the most beautiful waterfall in Mu Cang Chai (Photo Collected)
To reach the next four levels, visitors continue to go against the base of the waterfall to admire this destination. Mo Waterfall is a place that makes visitors want to explore and enjoy. Mo Waterfall is as beautiful as a multi-colored painting with the pink of peach blossoms, the bright red of plum blossoms, along with the green of the Northwestern mountains and the pure white of the waterfalls. All these create a stunningly beautiful picture and bring a cool feeling to visitors.
Thai Village
Crossing the bridge at the center of the district (towards Che Tao) and turning left for about 1km, visitors will arrive at Thai Village. It is considered a peaceful small village nestled in the valley, backed by mountains. Here, you can enjoy the special dishes of the Thai people, bathe in traditional herbal water, and rest in stilt houses. If traveling with a large group, you can organize exchange sessions and campfires in the evening.
Lao Chai
From the center of Mu Cang Chai town, heading towards Than Uyen for about 10km, visitors will reach Lao Chai commune. The road to the commune is not easy, with many narrow and slippery sections (it is not advisable to travel in the rain), but overcoming it, you will arrive at the majestic terraced fields. As a commune of Mu Cang Chai district, Lao Chai is a poor commune located 13km from the town center and is not listed in the terraced field heritage of Yen Bai province, so it is lesser-known.
Lao Chai is not far from the center of Mu Cang Chai, but the road is not easy (Photo Collected)
Motorbike itinerary for Mu Cang Chai
2 days 2 nights itinerary by motorbike
Day 1: Early in the morning, you start from Hanoi – Son Tay – Thanh Son – Thu Cuc – Nghia Lo (about 180km) along QL32, and you stay overnight in Nghia Lo.
Day 2: Nghia Lo – Thu Cuc – Khau Pha Pass – Mu Cang Chai (about 100km). Stay overnight in Mu Cang Chai. Along the way, you can stop at Thanh Son tea hill, and when you reach Yen Bai, you will pass through Khau Pha Pass, one of the “four great passes” for motorbike enthusiasts in the North.
Day 3: Mu Cang Chai – Hanoi
3 days 2 nights itinerary by motorbike
Day 1: Early in the morning, depart from Hanoi following QL32 Son Tay – Trung Ha – Thanh Son – Thu Cuc – Khe Pass – Nghia Lo – Tu Le – Khau Pha – Mu Cang Chai, stay overnight in Mu Cang Chai. If you leave early on the first day, you can stop to bathe in the hot springs right in the town of Nghia Lo, on the way up to Mu Cang Chai about 3km outside the town, there is a sign for the hot springs.
Day 2: From Mu Cang Chai town, you can move around to admire the rice fields, some suggested places are: La Pan Tan, Che Cu Nha… Lunch in the town. In the afternoon, go back from Mu Cang Chai to Tu Le to rest and enjoy some delicious dishes here, you can stay overnight in Tu Le.
Day 3: Tu Le – Lim Mong – Khau Pha – Nghia Lo – Lung Lo Pass – Thu Cuc – Thanh Son – Hanoi. On this day, you can go to Lim Mong (right at the foot of Khau Pha Pass, opposite the sign “Welcome to Mu Cang Chai”) then head back to Hanoi, on the way back you can skip Khe Pass and try Lung Lo Pass and still return to the itinerary like the day you left at Thu Cuc junction (the route is longer by about 20km). At the top of Lung Lo Pass is where the borders of Son La – Yen Bai – Phu Tho meet.
2 days 3 nights itinerary by car
Day 1: Be at My Dinh bus station around 6pm to catch the bus to Mu Cang Chai, sleep on the bus, and you will arrive in Mu Cang Chai town around midnight. Note: book a hotel in advance to avoid not having a place to sleep, especially during the ripe rice season in September or holidays, Tet.
Day 2: You can rent a motorbike in Mu Cang Chai to explore around the town and some communes like La Pan Tan, Che Cu Nha… It’s best to prepare food in advance to eat on the way at noon without needing to return. Return to sleep in Mu Cang Chai at night, remember to return before sunset.
Day 3: Continue to rent a motorbike in Mu Cang Chai, ride up to Khau Pha Pass (about 30km towards Hanoi from the town), Tu Le, Lim Mong. In the late afternoon, return to Mu Cang Chai to rest, personal hygiene, and dinner. Around midnight, there will be a bus from Mu Cang Chai back to Hanoi (Remember to contact the bus company in advance to reserve a seat). Wish you a safe journey!
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