Binh Lieu is a border tourism destination in Quang Ninh province. With its border adjacent to Guangxi province (China), the area features high mountains with stunning natural landscapes and a vibrant cultural life of ethnic minorities like the Tay, Dao, San Chi, and others. It is often referred to as the ‘Mini Sapa of the Northeast region.’ Join RuudNguyen.com in exploring the most interesting aspects of this border area.
Introducing Binh Lieu
Binh Lieu is a highland district with beautiful scenery in Quang Ninh (Collected Photo)
Binh Lieu is a mountainous and poor district in the northeast of Quang Ninh province; to the north, it borders Ninh Minh district, Sung Ta city, and Phong Thanh area of Phong Thanh port city (Guangxi – China); to the west, it borders Dinh Lap district (Lang Son province); to the east, it borders Hai Ha district, and to the south, it borders Tien Yen and Dam Ha districts (Quang Ninh province). (According to wiki).
Binh Lieu is a multi-ethnic district (about over 96% are ethnic minorities), with 05 main ethnic groups (Tay people making up 58.4%, Dao people 25.6%, San Chi people 15.4%, Kinh people 3.7%, and Chinese people 0.3%) creating a rich and diverse cultural depth, with a unique identity. In terms of culture, Binh Lieu has customs and many forms of folk cultural activities unique to many ethnic groups. The people do not follow any religion, the district has no temples or churches, only a few small communal houses worshiping local deities.
Families and clans only have the custom of worshiping ancestors. The most concentrated cultural activity in the past was the Tay and San Chi people’s au-pò festival on the 14th, 15th, 16th of the lunar March. On these days, young men and women from various villages gather in the district town to meet, chat, and sing folk songs (commonly known as the Love Market).
The Tay people have sli, ti lau, then songs. The San Chi people sing xoong co and usually meet in pairs throughout the 16th. During the au-pò festival and early spring days in the villages, people also play musical instruments, throw con, and play “gụ”.
When to travel to Binh Lieu?
In the green forests, each season has its flowers blooming in competition: peach blossoms, Na Lang plum blossoms, nutmeg flowers, pure white magnolias… adding to the pristine beauty of the remote border mountains. In summer, the weather is quite cool, so Binh Lieu is sometimes compared to a Mini Sapa of Quang Ninh, while in winter, the temperature can be quite low, similar to famous cold regions like Mau Son or Sapa.
- If you like to explore Khe Van waterfall, you should visit Binh Lieu around summer, in June or July, when the weather is suitable for swimming. In other seasons, the waterfall is relatively cold and foggy.
The Nutmeg Flower Season in Binh Lieu usually occurs in April (Collected Photo)
- Around the beginning of the year (usually after Tet), is the season for highland festivals, and Binh Lieu is no exception. The end of March marks the Nutmeg Flower Season, which is ideal for those who enjoy photographing flowers. In winter, if the temperature drops very low, Binh Lieu may experience snow and ice. This requires keeping an eye on the weather forecast.
Hotels and Guesthouses in Binh Lieu
Being likened to the Sapa of the Northeast region, Binh Lieu has recently attracted quite a lot of tourists from within and outside Quang Ninh province. You can rent guesthouses and motorbikes in the center of Binh Lieu town.
Beautiful Tourist Spots in Binh Lieu
Khe Van Waterfall
The waterfall is over 100 meters high. The space around the waterfall is quite wide, with three layers of cascading water creating a distinctive sound of the mountains. The first layer is a large stream of water flowing from the high cliffs, forming a wide pool.
Khe Van Waterfall (Collected Photo)
The water of the lake is crystal clear, and along with the white cascades of the waterfall, the greenery on the cliffs adds to the beauty and charm of the scenery. On the right side of the lake stands a rugged, angular rock formation, creating a fascinating natural landscape.
Khe Tien Waterfall
Khe Tien Waterfall consists of a complex of waterfalls with the Khe Tien 1, 2, 3 waterfall system. The waterfall is formed by streams at the foot of the mountains, creating small streams that cascade down.
Khe Tien Waterfall is located in the middle of a primeval forest in Khe Tien village (originating from the Quang Nam Chau mountain system over 1500 meters above sea level). The waterfall is 749 meters above sea level, with high air humidity, and is shrouded in dense fog throughout the year. The waterfall retains its pristine and charming appearance.
Khe Tien Waterfall (Collected Photo)
The Khe Tien waterfall complex is beautiful, with various shapes and forms. Waterfall 1 and 2 consist of smaller cascades that flow down to form a large pool, while waterfall 3 has multiple cascading streams. Folklore says that at Khe Tien Waterfall, there is a seven-colored stone. Therefore, when people visit the waterfall, they often try to find this multicolored stone.
Mooc River Waterfall
Another highlight attracting explorers is the Mooc River Waterfall, covering an area of about 3 hectares. The waterfall is pristine and cool, with a tier over 10 meters high cascading from the dense forest and winding around the village.
Mooc River Waterfall (Photo: Bao Quang Ninh)
It is fascinating for tourists to weave through irrigation ditches, past ripe, golden terraced rice fields… to discover this unique waterfall. At the base of the waterfall is a magnificent 400m2 rock bed with large boulders, creating a vast and majestic space.
Song Mooc Village
Perched halfway up the mountain, Song Mooc Village, Dong Van commune (Binh Lieu district) is surrounded by high mountains and clouds, with terraced fields of ripe rice, interspersed with ancient houses and a gentle waterfall in the distance… This fresh, peaceful, and pristine landscape is often referred to by travelers and backpackers as the ‘Mini Sapa’ of the Binh Lieu highlands.
Song Mooc Village (Collected Photo)
Song Mooc Village covers a natural area of over 375 hectares, of which 69 hectares are agricultural land. Situated at an altitude of over 1000 meters, the entire village is located on the slopes of the Phieng Che-Cao Ba Lanh mountain system.
As a result, Song Mooc Village has a distinct elevation gradient, with the lowest point being just over 300 meters above sea level, while the highest point is over 700 meters above sea level.
Check the boundary markers 1305 and the ‘Dinosaur Backbone’
There are 3 major and sacred boundary markers not to be missed when visiting Binh Lieu: 1300, 1302, 1305, and 1297 (located along the border patrol route between Binh Lieu and Dinh Lap, Lang Son). With the romantic beauty of white reed fields and majestic nature, the ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ is becoming an attractive destination for travel enthusiasts.
The ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ is simply the path leading to marker 1305 (Collected Photo)
The ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ is a term used to describe the mountain ridge leading to boundary marker 1305. To reach this marker, you need to traverse this ridge (which takes about 2 hours under favorable weather conditions).
This is also the most beautiful part of the route to this marker. However, as the path can be quite dangerous and strenuous, if you don’t have enough stamina to reach the marker, you can stop here to take photos.
Markers 1300, 1302
From Binh Lieu town, head towards Hoanh Mo on QL18C for about 3-4 km, then turn right into Ngan Chuong village. From Ngan Chuong, take a left turn near marker 61 for about 7-8 km towards markers 1300, 1302, which takes about an hour to check.
The ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ and boundary marker 1305
A familiar ‘check-in’ spot for many young people. (Photo: Tran Thao Tram)
Marker 1305 is located on the Binh Lieu, Hoanh Mo, Quang Ninh border patrol route. It is one of the two highest boundary markers in this province and not easily accessible. Looking at the map above, there are several ways to reach marker 1305;
Method 1: From the intersection of markers 61 and 68 at Ban Chuong, turn right towards marker 68. From marker 68, follow the road towards Hoanh Mo for about 5-6km until you see a dirt mound on the right and a sign pointing towards marker 1305. There are no stairs to climb this marker, you have to trek across the ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ which takes a minimum of about 2 hours in good weather.
Method 2: Start from the Hoanh Mo border post. Ask the border guards for directions to marker 1305 and follow the border patrol road as shown on the map.
Marker 1327 towards Dong Van
From the Hoanh Mo border checkpoint, ask the border guards for directions to marker 1327. After passing the border post, turn right and head straight towards the Dong Van market for about 20km (note that this is not the Dong Van market in Ha Giang). On the way to marker 1327, you will easily find many boundary markers right beside the road.
Cao Xiem Mountain Peak
With a height of 1,429m, located in Luc Hon commune, Binh Lieu district, Cao Xiem Mountain is known as the “Roof of Quang Ninh”. With its pristine, majestic, and poetic beauty, Cao Xiem is becoming an ideal destination for many adventure and backpacking travel groups visiting Binh Lieu.
Cao Xiem Mountain Peak is a popular destination for young adventurers in Binh Lieu (Collected Photo)
The journey to conquer the peak of Cao Xiem is estimated to be over 7km on foot, primarily following mountain trails with numerous rocky outcrops shrouded in mist throughout the year and crossing expansive, endless grassy hills.
From the center of Binh Lieu town, visitors can go up to Ngan Meo village, park their motorbikes, and then proceed on foot. The path to Cao Xiem passes through forests of magnolia, pine, and large grassy fields with clusters of red-berried raspberry bushes, a favorite for trekkers to pick and enjoy or take as gifts.
The higher you climb, the more you can appreciate the majesty of the mountains and nature. On foggy days, Cao Xiem is enveloped in mist, creating a feeling of being in a heavenly place, while on clear days, visitors can gaze upon the terraced fields undulating like waves below.
Cloud Hunting at Cao Ly Mountain
Cao Ly is a mountain in Huc Dong commune, Binh Lieu district, over 1000 meters above sea level. Here, in winter, there can be frost and snow cover. However, in autumn (especially late autumn – early winter) or after the drizzly rains of late spring, the valleys between the high mountain peaks often see a lot of clouds.
Cao Ly Mountain Peak in the Clouds (Collected Photo)
The Luc Ngu-Khe Tien road is under construction, expected to be completed in the summer of 2016, and will connect Khe Van Waterfall to potential tourist spots in Dong Van. On this route, tourists will pass through Cao Ly Mountain.
Some Terraced Field Locations
Binh Lieu is not only home to poetic reed fields but also to terraced rice fields similar to those in Sapa or Mu Cang Chai. Binh Lieu presents itself in a simple and peaceful manner with fields of ripe golden rice, echoing with the tinkling bells around the necks of buffaloes plowing the fields, sounding like joyful wind chimes.
Binh Lieu During the Rice Harvest Season is as Beautiful as Other Regions (Collected Photo)
As such, every September, when the rice begins to bloom and turn a vast expanse of golden, Binh Lieu transforms into a spectacularly beautiful place. The terraced fields in Binh Lieu represent a natural beauty that blends with the cultural aspect of labor, curving delicately like steps to heaven. Here are some suggested places to visit in Binh Lieu during the rice harvest season:
- Khe O, Cao Thang, Ngan Pat villages (Luc Hon commune), located on the western slope of Cao Xiem mountain, about 3 km from National Highway 18C.
- Song Mooc and Khe Tien villages (Dong Van commune), located on the southern slope of the Phieng Che mountain range, about 3 km from the center of Dong Van commune.
- Ngan Cam and Cao Son villages, Hoanh Mo commune (off-road path to Ngan Can near the snake stream).
- Huc Dong commune – Area en route to Khe Van Waterfall.
Binh Lieu Market Fair
Located in Binh Lieu town, the Central Market is the largest market in Binh Lieu district. According to the locals, the market has a long history. Previously, the market used to open on odd days. Nowadays, as the economic conditions of the people in the area have improved and the demand for buying and selling goods has increased, the market has become more frequent, especially bustling on Sundays.
Binh Lieu Market is like a colorful painting of the local ethnic communities (Collected Photo)
The market fair is a space for interaction and trade among the Tay, Dao, San Chi, and other ethnic groups from the district and neighboring areas like Tien Yen, Dam Ha, etc. Therefore, the market is not only a bustling hub of commerce but also a unique and colorful space reflecting the diverse cultures of these ethnic groups.
Arriving at the market early, visitors witness the lively atmosphere as people flock in with goods, agricultural and forest products. Adults carry loads, children chatter happily alongside, and babies sleep snugly on their mothers’ backs… Tay and Dao girls, smiling radiantly in their bright, multicolored traditional costumes, add to the market’s festive feel.
Around 8 am, the market becomes busier and more vibrant. The stalls inside the market are neatly organized, with the inner circle being the busiest, and then spreading outwards, with people even selling goods right at the market entrance…
Hoanh Mo Border Gate
Next to marker 1317 (2) is the Hoanh Mo border control station, one of the border crossings between Vietnam and China. Visitors to Hoanh Mo can also see marker 1317(2), located on the Vietnamese side.
Hoanh Mo Border Gate (Collected Photo)
Luc Na Communal House
Luc Na Communal House, located in Ban Cau village, Luc Hon commune, Binh Lieu district, was built during the Later Le dynasty. In the past, Luc Na Communal House was the largest in the region, with five compartments, round wooden columns with diameters of 40 – 50 cm, walls made of local bricks, and yin-yang tiled roofs. In 2011, with funding from the provincial budget, Luc Na Communal House underwent a renovation costing 8.5 billion VND, covering an area of 10,187m2.
Luc Na Communal House (Collected Photo)
Luc Na Communal House worships the village deity Hoang Can, a military general and a national hero who played a significant role in the fight against the northern invaders, protecting the country’s territory.
Legend has it that when the Tay people in the Northeastern Tan Yen area (now Binh Lieu) were living peacefully, invaders from the North brought destruction and sorrow. The people lived in fear and resentment.
In a certain village, there was a Tay man named Hoang Can, who was intelligent and strong. Unwilling to endure the brutal rule, he secretly gathered young men from the village to train in martial arts. When the time was right, Hoang Can led a revolt against the enemy’s base. With a bamboo stick in hand, he struck terror into the enemy’s ranks.
After defeating the invaders, Hoang Can returned to his homeland. After his death, to express their gratitude, the people of Binh Lieu district erected a temple and communal house in his honor and worshipped him as the village deity, holding grand annual ceremonies in the early spring. The communal house is also a place of worship for mountain gods, river gods, and local deities.
Luc Na Communal House also holds significant historical revolutionary importance for Binh Lieu district. On November 20, 1945, a large rally organized by the Viet Minh took place here, declaring the establishment of the temporary revolutionary government of the district. On January 18, 1946, the Binh Lieu District Administrative Committee was established, and on November 21, 1946, the district’s Homeland Defense Force was also formed here.
Delicious Dishes of Binh Lieu Not to Be Missed
Binh Lieu Dried Radish
Radish is a traditional product of Binh Lieu, Quang Ninh, dating back a long time. Dried radish is made from white radishes – often compared to white ginseng for their health benefits and medicinal properties – grown in the high mountainous regions. The radishes here are sweet and large, typically weighing 1-1.5kg each.
Dried Radish (Collected Photo)
Binh Lieu Honey
Binh Lieu is also known for its honey, which is considered equally valuable. In modern life, honey is an ingredient used in many fields, from culinary arts to medicine production, as well as in cosmetics and beauty treatments.
Binh Lieu Honey (Collected Photo)
Binh Lieu honey is harvested in two ways:
- Harvesting from the wild in forests
- Harvesting from bee colonies raised in villages, streams, and mountainous areas
Binh Lieu Glass Noodles
Glass noodles, a familiar dish to Vietnamese people, vary in specialty from region to region. Typically, glass noodles have a shiny golden color, and when locals dry them on bamboo racks outside their homes or on large grassy fields, the whole village looks vibrant like a painting. However, Binh Lieu glass noodles are darker in color; they have a greenish hue and a uniquely firm and delicious texture, making them stand out from other products.
Production Process of Glass Noodles in Binh Lieu (Collected Photo)
Binh Lieu glass noodles are made from the tubers of the dong rieng plant. In Binh Lieu, one can find vast fields of dong rieng cultivation, with the plants blooming in stunning shades of yellow and orange.
Traditionally, people in Binh Lieu used to manually spread the noodles, producing them as a family cottage industry, but now there are larger facilities that use machines for production. Making glass noodles has become a prosperous profession for the people of Binh Lieu, who previously relied solely on simple agricultural activities.
Sesame Oil
To produce Sesame Oil, several steps are involved: Freshly harvested fruits are piled up and fermented until they crack open, then the seeds are extracted and dried. Next, the seeds are put into a machine to separate the husk from the inner kernel. The husk is quickly removed from the seed. Once dehusked, the kernels are roasted dry in a machine at 150 degrees Celsius for about 30 minutes.
Sesame Flower Festival in Binh Lieu (Collected Photo)
This step is quite important as it affects the quality of the oil extracted from the sesame seeds. Properly roasted seeds are pressed to extract crude oil. This crude oil is pressed directly from the seeds without adding any fragrance. After filtering, the crude oil has a yellow color similar to many other types of oil, but it has a distinctive aroma with a slight sharpness characteristic of Sesame Oil.
The Sesame plant has many uses. It is grown for its seeds, which are used for edible oil or in industry. The fruit is used for fishing. The roots are used to treat acute laryngitis, stomach pain, sprains; both roots and bark are used to treat fractures and twisted ankles.
Use 30-60g in the form of a decoction. The seed oil is not only used for frying and cooking like regular cooking oil, but Sesame Oil also contains many nutrients beneficial to the body, helps prevent cancer, reduce fat, and enhance immunity. It is an OCOP (One Commune One Product) product of Binh Lieu district.
Binh Lieu Cinnamon Bark
Cinnamon trees in Binh Lieu are extensively cultivated in Vo Ngai, Hoanh Mo, Dong Van, etc., and are harvested twice a year. The spring season, characterized by less rain and prolonged warm sunlight, is highly suitable for the harvesting and processing of cinnamon bark. In autumn, frequent rains and overcast weather can often lead to the bark becoming moldy and rotting.
Binh Lieu Cinnamon Season (Collected Photo)
Binh Lieu Backpacking Itinerary
Hanoi – Binh Lieu – Lang Son – Hanoi
Day 1: Hanoi to Binh Lieu
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Depart from Hanoi in the morning, cross the Thanh Tri Bridge, then head towards Bac Ninh, turn onto QL18 to Pha Lai, then proceed to Cam Pha, Hoanh Mo, and Binh Lieu.
- After lunch, visit some easily accessible border markers, Ngan Vang village, the Na Lang suspension bridge, and explore Khe Van Waterfall.
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Stay overnight in Binh Lieu.
Na Lang Suspension Bridge (Collected Photo)
Day 2: Binh Lieu to Lang Son to Hanoi
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Wake up early in the morning to visit the ‘Dinosaur Backbone’ and marker 1305.
- After descending, drive along the border patrol road towards Lang Son, visiting markers 1302, 1300, 1297.
- Have lunch in Lang Son before returning to Hanoi. If time permits, you can extend your trip by 1-2 days to explore Lang Son.
Note when backpacking in Binh Lieu: The road from Hanoi to Binh Lieu has winding and difficult stretches as you approach Binh Lieu, so avoid traveling at night. This route is quite popular and chosen by many travelers.
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